Answers From The Pros

That is called the Unibody, and we do that.

Miles,

Riding a spinning horse is not always the easiest thing to do, if the horse is kicking in the spin it is alot easier to stay square because you will have help from him kicking, although you really need to be able to set your feet and then wait on the horse to hit the ground with his front feet before you start your next spur lick.
Reason being is there is going to be a gravitaional pull from the spin.
A horse that spins with no kick is really hard to stay square on because there is usually not much help from the horse. my best advise is to hold your feet in the horses neck as long as you can before each spur lick and then make spur stroke considerably shorter in order to beat the horses front feet back to the ground. I hope this helps.

Your Friend Clint Corey
PRCA World Champion BB Rider

I am assuming that you ride left handed and you are prying over your left leg. In this case you need to get you left elbow in close to your ribs and lift over your hips rather than pry over your leg. If you are riding right handed you need to lift over your hips also but make sure that your upper body stays square and that you are not hanging over and watching your left foot. Hope that helps
Bobby

Gunnar, to answer your question on the gear that you will need follow this link. www.barstowprorodeo.com/pro_answers.php#qid206
As far as finding places to get on, I would get a Humps and Horns magazine, or something similar to look for places to get on. If you don't have any luck with that, try looking for some local stock contractors, they will be able to get you on some stock.

The front binds are there to hold your leg against the swells as you spur back towards the cantle. Hope this helps.

Rick Smith

Dominick,
Yes it does matter. For the most part handles that are weak in the riser area of the handle are going to twist on you when you put lots of torque on it. What this does is it allows your hand to twist with the handle. This is how hang-ups occur. Some people do get bull ropes made with softer handles, mainly to prevent wrist injuries or for people that already have bad wrists. However people that do get softer handles, still get them with fairly hard risers. What you want in a rope is a solid block, hard riser, and fairly hard handle. This is what I would recommend for any one starting out. Once you've been on several, you will begin to know what you do and don't like in a rope. The advantages of having a harder handle is that it is going to last you much longer.

You can try calling a guy by the name of Rob Gann. He lives in the Lone Oak area and he is a stock contractor. He should be able to get you on some bulls. His number is (501) 944-8921. If you haven't been on any yet, you need to get to a school. There is one coming up in May that JB and Blaine Whipp are putting on. The info is on our website for that school. I hope this helps you and good luck.

The difference between the two is that the standard sits more flat on the horse. The High lift sits higher. Typically, the high lift is preferred by guys with shorter arms. This is because guys with longer arms are already going to be back further without any help from the rigging. As far as advantages and disadvantages go, it will come down to what you like the best. If you are not sure on deciding, go by the rule if you have long arms go with the standard, short arms go with the High lift. If you know someone with either one, try them out and see which you prefer.

Its not a bad thing at all I have been on thousands of horse and still get nervous but you have to learn to control that feeling your nerves will get less and less the more time you ride and when you make that one good ride things get even better so hang in their it gets better
Clint Cannon
Top PRCA BB Rider

Colter,

I am going to help Bobby Mote put a school on in Helena, Montana in March. I believe he said the dates were the 12th-14th. I will find out the details (cost, entry info etc.) and let you know if you are interested in attending.

Thanks Clint Corey

Eric,
There are several ways you can do that. Some people take the glove apart at the seam of the glove, where the cheater goes. Once you do that, cut the leather for the cheater and glue it in. Once that has dried, cut your palm piece leather and glue it in. Then cut and glue your padding. After all that is done you will baseball stitch it back together. Another alternative is to turn the glove inside out and do the same thing. The bad thing about turning it inside out is that it more difficult to do once the glove has benzoin on it. If you are not sure if you can do it, I would contact someone that can. You don't want to ruin a brand new glove that costs that much.

To get started you will need a Bronc Saddle, spurs, rowels, spur straps, boots, chaps, vest, rein, and halter. All of this new is going to cost around $2400. Our saddles are the G-G, which costs $1875. They come with stirrup leathers, stirrups, billets, back cinch, front cinch, and latigos.

I would suggest riding your spur board,bale of hay or if you have the availbility of a gentle horse you can put your riggin on and have some one lead you around so you can hold your heels against the horses neck just above the break of the shoulders, (so as to mark the horse out) You can concentrate on this in a controlled environment and build your muscle memory, no spurs when you are doing this.
I like to work on turning my toes out and keeping my upper body square and thinking about lifting on my Barstow riggin.
If you haven't seen it you may want to buy or borrow one of my Winning Edge Videos, there is a lot of good information on it for someone just starting to ride. I hope this helps and if you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Thank You
Clint Corey
PRCA World Champion BB Rider

One of the areas we have started focusing more on here at Central Wyoming College is upper body and core strength The more I learn about the roughstock events the more it becomes apparent that pound for pound strength is vital. As we know nothing can replace live practice. But when you can’t practice for a while you can work on getting stronger, watching tape, and keeping a positive mental attitude. Hope this helps

Rick Smith
Rodeo Coach CWC

The difference is the way the leather is laced into the handle. A right handed rope will resist being twisted to the left. The same goes for the left handed rope. If the handle you have is laced really hard, it can be used either way. I wouldn't recommend this because if you don't know what you are doing, it could cause you to get hung up. So to answer your question, is it a good thing, I would answer no it isn't.

Lane,
We can do that. You will have to send the rigging into us for us to build one on there. It will take some time to do that, probably 6-8 weeks. Give us a call at 800-25-0105 and we can discuss how to go about doing that.

I am not sure about the offset Brazilian ropes, but I would say it is safe to say that you should put your hand against the block with every rope. To make your rope tighter on your hand, try getting a thicker pad.
If you can't get it right, you may have to get a better rope. I suggest a Barstow rope!

HEY TYLER,
GOOD QUESTION !!! I WILL TELL YOU THE REASON THAT I USE ONE NOW . I NEED A ROPE PAD NOW BECAUSE IF I DO NOT USE ONE MY KNUCKLES WILL SWELL UP AND GET VERY SORE. WHEN I WAS YOUNGER I DID NOT RUN INTO THIS PROBLEM.
I WOULD CONSIDER USING ONE ON A BULL THAT IS BONEY.
AS FOR OTHER BULLS IT IS UP TO YOU . YOU MAY WANT TO TRY TO USE A THIN PAD TO START AND SEE IF YOU LIKE THAT FEEL.
IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW !
GOOD LUCK !
BJ SCHUMACHER
2006 PRCA World Champion Bull Rider
www.BJSchumacher.net

Colton,
We put the most popular ropes on our website. We have been making bull ropes for over 40 years. We can make any type of bull rope there is out there. If you do not see one on the website like you are wanting, We can custom make any rope you want. As far as a "souped up" bull rope with bells and pads on it, those are extras that can also be purchased. If you have any questions, please contact us at 800-255-0105, and we will be glad to assist you in finding the best rope for you.

Clint,
You should be able to find his contact information online. If you can't, I have one number for him. It is (214) 265-3200.

Mike,
We carry the Shock Doctor. Both of the ones you mentioned are good mouthpieces. I do believe they still make the WIPPS, you just need to search them online or local sports stores. Either way, both mouthpieces are going to give you better protection than nothing at all.

Deciding which riggings fits the horse the best and is easiest on the arm is a personal choice depending on what feels the best to you. There are more guys who feel that the High Lift style riggings are easier on the arm, but again it is up to the individual. The bar question is again personal choice. On the both bars under rigging, the peak stays in your body longer, but the handle seems to wear out faster. An over and under handle doesn't turn over as fast, but the body breaks down sooner. We sell more both bars under at a ratio of about 8 to 1.

Christopher,
That is a common question. Please follow the link to see what has been answered in the past.
http://www.barstowprorodeo.com/pro_answers.php#qid318

Matt, I talked to some guys and it looks like there is going to be a week long bull riding school in Ohio at the end of May. This school is going to be taught by J.B. Mauney, Blaine Whipp, and several other guys. From what I hear, there is going to be as many bulls to get on as you want, boarding, food, and buckles given away at the end of the school. As soon as I get more information, I will post it on the rodeo school section of our website. I would imagine that it will feel up fast once we put it on the website. This is going to be about the closest best school for you to get into on the East Coast.

I started out practicing on a bale of hay, I would turn it on its side and put my riggin on it and practice spurring picking up the front of the bale with my feet as I would drag them to my handle. Barstow also has a spur magic that is a great tool for practice. Always remember to practice squeezing on your handle and lifting while your spurring any time your practicing, whether your on a real horse or a practice "dummy".
The weight training that I do is mostly lighter weights and high reps. I do a pretty basic workout and always do at least three sets of each lift and do 12 to 16 reps. You should also make sure to do lots of sit-ups and crunches and other core strengthening exercises those will really help out a lot!


Best of luck, and bare down!


Jason Havens

Colton, The people that made it for us was no longer to do it. We have found a new maker for it. We hope to have some in the coming months. Keep checking our website.

Dalton, I wouldn't recommend it. The reason is that the leather is laced in the handle to prevent the handle from turning in the opposite direction. You can use it, people do all the time, but I wouldn't advise it. The reason is that the handle isn't going to hold up and you are more likely to get hung up with it.

Hey Jeff, aside from pushups and situps Kettle bells are a simple great work out
for cardio, strength, and over all conditioning there is nothing better. But find a trainer to show you to use them best.
Thanks,
Kelly Wardell

Justin, there are lots of people that feel the same way. We came out with a comfort vest for that reason. We have had it for a long time, but people are just now starting to ride with them again. Give us a call at 800-255-0105 and we can fix you up. Now if you just don't want a vest at all, you can go with the neck roll. We have those as well.

You might try Bubba Miller, He is the coach at Sam Houston State. He has his own arena at his church.

B.J.
The best thing to do is to get to a school. It probably is a mental block, but if you get to a school the Pros can help you get over it.

Tyler,
We are in the process of having more of the Bronc Magic's made. That is a good exercise for you to do. Try giving us a call in about a month. We should have them then.

Personally, I like Barstow's bronc riding boot. It has a reinforced shank and is built for the sole purpose of riding broncs. There are some others out there but Barstow's is my preference.
Bob Griswold

Weston,
There is a school close to you. It is called the Southeast Idaho Rodeo Bible Camp. It is in Downey, Idaho. I know that Wiley Petersen helps with the bull riding every year, but I don't know who helps with the bareback riding. They usually have that school in June. Keep checking our website for up to date schools.

Pat,
I have looked and asked. We are going to try and come up with a database of practice stock. Until then, you might try local stock contractors. They usually are wanting to buck some and might be able to point you in a better direction.

I just changed to nylon my self about two years ago I like them a lot better because you can tighten them as much as you want or just as loose not having to get that last hole in leather can be uncomfortable.

Try the Waxahachie Cowboy church or Hill College. Chris Harris has helped a lot of guys over at Hill. He even occasionally bucks some horses at his place. The Cowboy church in Waxahachie bucks horses and bulls on Thursday nights. Hope this helps you.

Christopher,
Getting started in rodeo is like a lot of sports, some what expensive. But, like many things you get what you pay for. If you are looking to buy cheap rodeo equipment, I would try pawn shops or ebay. But, even at those places you will most likely be buying rodeo equipment that is used and worn out. We don't really cater to cowboys looking for cheaper equipment. The reason is, our equipment is made in our shop in Corsicana Texas where we can over see everything that is being made and ensure that our customers are getting equipment that is going to hold up. We try our best to make sure that each customer gets equipment that is of the highest quality. The reason for that is the fact that for many cowboys, this is how they make their living, by rodeoing. These guys don't want something that is cheap and isn't going to last and hold up over time. Most bare back riders take a lot of time to get their gloves and riggings setup to where they feel perfect, and they don't have to worry about their hand blowing out. So once they finally get everything right, they don't want their rigging wearing out and then have to switch once they've got it right. Also, there are safety factors to consider. You don't want a rigging that the handle is going to breakdown after a few horses and cause you to get hurt. The reasons listed above is why a guy should try to pay a little extra and get good equipment that is going to hold up. You can buy something cheaper at first, but if it wears out faster and you are having to replace it more often, is it really cheaper? I hope this helps you.
Thanks for your question.

Christopher,
Bobby Mote has put on 2 or 3 Schools in Red Bluff. Keep checking our website or go to www.BobbyMote.com to find out when he is having the next school.

The compression sleeve I always get from a Justin Sports Medicine trailer, it is the same material that they put on your leg before they put a cast on I believe. You might be able to find it at a dr. office or maybe you could buy a roll from an athletic supply warehouse.

Kevin,
The same question was answered by Kelly Wardell. Here is what he said:
"If you dont have trouble turning your toes out when you are not on a horse, then most likley its a mental block of some kind and it happens to everyone. Try to visualize exactly the way you want to do it in your mind over and over
until it just happens on its own."

Shane,
Asking which rope is better is like asking which flavor of ice cream is best. A 9/7 is a 9 plait handle with a 7 plait tail. A 9/5 is a 9 plait handle with a 5 plait tail. Either rope can be made to any width on the tail and the handle. The plaits of the rope determine how hard the rope will be. 9 plait is the hardest, which is why we make most handles 9 plait, and 5 is the softest. Out of all of the plaits, you can braid each one hard, medium, soft, or really mushy. It just depends on how hard you pull the rope while braiding it. You can add or take out strands of the rope to get your desired width of rope. You have many different options from a tight baby 9 plait tail, all the way to the other end of the spectrum, which would be a 42 strand mushy 5 plait. The baby 9 plait would measure 5/8" wide and the 42 strand mushy 5 plait would measure around 2 1/2" wide. I hope this gives you an idea of the differences in plaits of bull ropes and all of the different ways tails can be made.
So to answer your question, it will just depend on what you like the best. You will have to look at some friends' ropes and see what you like. I would find a plait, and how hard or soft you like it first, and then find out how wide it needs to be in order to fit in your hand the best. You will just have to try different ones to see what you like.
Pretty much the same goes for rowels. Many people are changing to all of these different rowels to get more grip, which everyone wants. But since everyone has been doing this, you will notice the increase in injury of bull riders getting their spurs caught in their tails when getting off and getting seriously injured. Some say that it is because of the soft tails, which is partly true. However we have been making mushy tails for over 10 years, and haven't had any problems or heard of any serious wrecks up until lately, partly due to the more aggressive rowels. So I would get a rowel that gets a decent hold but isn't so aggressive that you have to worry about it burying in a semi-soft tail and not coming out.
Good Luck

Amir,
Your best bet is trying the Gary Leffew Bull Riding School. That is a good school from what I hear, and it is going to be the closest one to you. I have talked to Ross Coleman, and he is planning on having one in the future, but doesn't know when yet. If you keep checking our website, we will post any new schools that are coming up.

Christopher,
This will be approximate, but you will need:
Rigging-$530
Pad-$80
2 Latigos-$60
Cinch-$45
Handle Pad-$25
Glove-$130
Protective Vest-$300
Boots-$200
Spurs, Rowels, and Spur Straps-$100
Chaps-$300
Rosin, Tape, Boots straps, etc.-$30
Total-$1800
This should get you started.

Taylor,


I would suggest finding a good orthopedic surgeon who understands rodeo, the justin sports medicine team could recommend one. They would be able to tell you what you would need to support your elbow based on what kind of damage occurred. It's hard to find the right kind of doctor so that's what I would recommend.


Jason

Try not to squeeze your swells. Your front binds should apply pressure that will keep you in the saddle when your feet are moving.

If your saddle is adjusted correctly, stirrup length and binds, you should have a secure feeling while moving your feet.

The spur board will help free your feet up and get good motion. Don’t try to hang on to your saddle. Let it work for you.

Bob Griswold

Brandon,
I would say so, but it depends on how hard you want to rodeo. They are good for people that aren't looking to travel far and go real hard. I know that Justin McDaniel used to go to those, in fact he made the IPRA Finals when he was still in High School. He had to fininsh taking his Finals at school before he could get there. It is a good association if you are a beginner, or a if you are just wanting to rodeo on weekends. Hope this helps.

Ricky,
here is what Jarrod Craig has to say about being tall and riding bulls:

I am 6ft and 180lbs I am big for a bullrider myself. I don't think size matters. What matters most is that you have the desire to do it. I know plenty of guys that are tall and make a good living riding bulls every year. Don't ever let someone else tell you what you can or can't do. Don't quit and go be the best.

Sincerely,

Jarrod Craig
2 X WNFR Qualifier

Derrek,
Sometimes it gets redundant, but you are just going to have to try several pads to see which one you like the most. Just about anybody that makes rodeo equipment make a pad that goes between the bull and the rope and then has a flap that helps protect your hand. I would recommend starting with something like that. If you don't like that, then maybe try a sheepskin pad, or just a plain knuckle pad.

I use the Okie high lift. I just set it up so that it fits my hand and that's all you need to do.
Thanks for your question
Bobby Mote
3 X World Champion BB Rider
Click Here To Go To Bobby Mote.com

Josh,
Here is a diagram that G-G uses for saddle sizing.

5'5" to 5'7" use 15-1/2 to 16" seat
5'8" to 5'10" use 16 to 16-1/2" seat
5'11" to 6'1" use 16-1/2" to 17" seat

Dylan,
Rosin is used to make your glove stick. This, along with a cheater and your binds, helps your hand stay in the rigging.

Bobby Mote has been putting on schools in Red Bluff, CA. I believe that he has had several schools there this year. In fact, he just had one there this last weekend. Keep checking our website often, and as soon as Bobby puts another one on there we will have all the information up for you.

JB,
If you are looking for a good deal on a Mighty Bucky, the only thing i can think of is to go online and search for them, maybe Ebay. If you can't find anything contact Terry Holland at (903) 693-2965. You can also go to his website at http://www.mightybucky.com/ . You can find all of the information there. Terry is a great guy and the developer of the Mighty Bucky. Hope this helps and good luck.

A saddle change may be a strong possibility. Most guys your size you are in a little bit longer saddle; 16 ¾” to 17”. It would be best to find a bronc rider with knowledge to help you make the choice.

Sometimes where there is not enough pressure on your feet, it makes it hard to hold your mark out and you may need to shorten the length of your sturrip leathers.

That is the best I can offer without being with you to check things out.

Bob Griswold

Its my opinion that you tape you arm for hypertension. So you tape it so that you can just get it straight but it takes the snap away when your arm straightens. Hope that helps.
Bobby Mote
3 X World Champion BB Rider
Click Here To Go To Bobby Mote.com

Kyle,
In order to get started, you will need the following:
Bareback rigging, Glove, benzoin, rigging pad, 2 latigos, cinch, handle pad, boots, spurs, rowels, rosin, spur straps, and a protective vest. I would advise having someone help you set your glove and rigging up. It is important to get your rigging and glove setup to fit your hand. Once you get all of your gear, I would recommend getting to a school, or find someone that can help you get started.

Blake

I am 6'3 185 pounds . I think the size of your heart matters more than anything. All through my career everybody said I was too tall to ride. But after the event I was the first one at the pay window getting the first place check. So keep baring down staying in the gym and if you eat, sleep, drink bull riding you will go as far as you want to go.

Palmer Merritt
Top Bull Rider

When a bull is spinning in your hand and fading, you just have to lift own your bull rope. That keeps you from going in the well. I'm not sure about an association in Missouri. Get a Humps and Horns and that will give you everything you need for the sponsors part. It is hard, you just have to get out there and promote yourself and prove to them why they need you to wear their logo.

Sean Willingham
Top PBR Bull Rider

Adam,
Try the Mullen, Thedford area. I believe that is close to you. Steven Dent told me that they have practice stock there in the Summer. Unfortunately, there's not much to get on up there in the winter. Hope this helps.

Try and contact Dale Teeke 713-828-0647. He can help you out.

Clint Cannon
Top PRCA BB Rider

Derek,
That is great that you are wanting to improve your physical conditioning. I started working out hard when I was about your age and I know that it has helped me stay healthy and competitive for much longer than without.
I would recommend kettlebells as a strength and conditioning program. I have been doing workouts from Anthony Diluglio www.artofstrength.com for the last year and I have noticed that I am stronger and more aerobically conditioned because of it. Kettlebells are great to get in total body workouts as well as balance and aerobics. The most important thing you can do is something. Anything helps. Do a little everyday and soon you will be noticing the difference.
Thanks for the question. God bless.

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Ryan,
No one other than your parents can tell you what is best for you. Your parents are just looking out for your best interest, and until you get to the age where you are out on your own, you are going to have to do what they say.

Guys use many different types. What most of the guys you see use is tape. You can put a elbow pad over that if you need. If you are talking about a brace, you might try a doctor or even search online for it.

Bobby Mote

Hey Lonny, The best way is to work on keeping your feet even and lifting on a spur board over and over.

Kelly Wardell

Chase:

In my opinion, height does make a difference. From a judge’s point of view, it is hard to have fast feet. Longer legged guys may have a harder time making sharp, crisp spur rides especially on small horses. However, it is not impossible.

Bobby Griswold
4 x WNFR Qualifier
www.BobbyGriswold.com

Mario,

I don't block my latigos on my riggin, if putting tape on the d-rings is what you are asking. I feel like the latigos naturally fit in the lowest point of the d-ring, which is where I want them when I pull my riggin. I don't think that you need to worry about blocking your latigos.
There are lots of different ways to make neck braces, I recomend asking someone who uses one because it seems to be a personal preference on what style guys like. Some like them soft, and others prefer a more ridgid brace. I quit wearing one because it made my neck sore actually, but when I wore one I liked a softer neck brace. Mine was made out of foam and a piece of compression sleeve. A towel rolled up in the sleeve works well also, you might have to experiment to find what works best for you.

Jason Havens

HEY MARC
I WOULD DEFINITATELY HIT UP A GOOD WELL KNOWN SCHOOL . I WILL BE PUTTING ON SOME SCHOOLS AND I KNOW FRED BOETTCHER PUTS ON A GREAT SCHOOL. STACE SMITH WILL BE PUTTING ON A SCHOOL AROUND THANKSGIVING TIME IN MESQUITE TX. .IF YOU CAN'T GET TO ONE OF THOSE SANKEY IS ALWAYS PUTTING ON SCHOOLS.
AS FOR A 35DEGREE SPUR IT IS A PERSONAL PREFERENCE . WHAT EVER FEELS GOOD TO YOU . WHEN GETTING YOUR TOES TURNED OUT FOCUS MORE ON YOUR CHEST. KEEP YOUR CHEST OUT AND SQUEEZE WITH YOUR KNEES AND KEEP YOUR CHIN DOWN. THIS WILL HELP WITH YOUR TOES. ON THE BRAZILIAN ROPE I WOULD USUALLY SAY IF IT IS NOT BROKE DON'T FIX IT . BUT IF YOU WANT TO TRY IT GO FOR IT SINCE YOU HAVEN'T RODE IN A WHILE .
GOOD QUESTIONS AND GOOD LUCK!!!!
BJ SCHUMACHER
www.BJSchumacher.net

The best way to measure for a rigging is to trace your riding hand with your palm down, thumb out and the other fingers together. Once you have that you can send it in to us. We can tell you what size rigging you need. Another way is to try on a bare back glove. Once you know what size you need, then you will probably need at least a half size bigger rigging than your glove size. This isn't always true because some guys ride with a bigger cheater, therfore need a bigger handle. If you have no idea of what you need, I would send us your hand tracing.

There is a guy in the Salem area. His name is Rusty Gorham. His number is 541-401-1901. He should have more information.

Abraham,
It depends on what you want. I can tell you that the black rosin is much more sticky. Some people will tell you that they use black when it is cold and white when it is warm. The reason behind that is that black rosin has a lower melting point, and when you are in the south in the middle of August your black rosin might get a litlle gummy and be more difficult to put on. It also depends on what event you ride. Most bare back riders use white rosin, and most bull riders use black.

Dustin,
If you are not sure if you want to get started in it, you need to borrow some gear and get on a few. If you find out you do like it, then you will need to get in a school somewhere. On our website there are a list of schools for bare back riding. I would recommend getting in one and learn from the best. This will teach you the fundamentals, and it will give you an opportunity to get on some more stock.

Drew:

In Colorado, there are several PRCA contractors who will be trying to buck their colts. You should try contacting the PRCA office at 719-593-8840. They may be able to give you contact information for stock contractors in your area. Another option would be college rodeo programs. They may have practice horses or a source for practice horses.

Bobby Griswold
4 x WNFR Qualifier
www.BobbyGriswold.com

Dylan,
We do sell the neck rolls. You will have to call us to order them. We do not have them on the website yet.

Bud,

I think that your problem could be fixed by making sure that you keep your hips in front of your shoulders at all times. If your hips get behind your shoulders then that's when your feet will drop and you can't keep lifting. So just keep lifting and make sure your hips are always in front of your shoulders.

Jason Havens

The best thing is to not get a twist in your rope. However that isn't always easy. The one thing that does cause a twist in your rope is how you tie the knot. Most people flip their loop over their knot once they have tied there knot. That is incorrect. Instead of fliiping it over, run your tail through the loop. It is the same thing except you are not putting a twist in the rope. That will help with not getting a twist in it. But if you already do have a twist in it, wrap the rope, the part of the loop end closest to the block, around something stationary so it can't move or twist. I make about 2 wraps. After getting it secrured, I then twist the loopend in the opposite direction of the twist that is in it. You will want to put as many twists in it as you can. While you are doing this you need to keep the loopend from getting kinks in it. After you have it twisted as much as you can stretch the rope out and secure the loopend. I would leave it like this for a few days. This just basically "resets" the memory of the rope.

Jacky,
That is difficult to explain but I will try. Keep the two ropes of your loop end running parallel the whole time tying the knot. Now, what I do is roll the rope up beginning with the tail all the way to the beginning of the loop end. Then put the rope between your legs and take the loop end with your right hand and make a loop to the left and cross it under the part closest to the block. Take the end of the loop end and cross it through the loop you just made. Now run your tail through the loop end of the rope and pull your knot out. That is it. Now if this is too confusing, you might try to Google it or give us a call.

Dustin,
First, you will need a bareback rigging. If you are just starting out, the half and half rigging is a good one to start with. They are less expensive, harder to hang up with, and will encourage you to learn how to ride properly, by setting your feet. Along with the rigging you will need latigos, a cinch, a rigging pad, handle pad, a bareback riding glove, boots, spurs, spur straps, rosin, benzoin for your glove, and a vest. Some people think that they will save money by buying used equipment. In some case that is good. However, if you do buy a used rigging, you need to know what to look for. If the handle on a used rigging has lots of cracks in it, be careful. Usually cracks in the handle means that it is either at the end of it's life, or that a horse flipped on it. Also if the handle moves around a lot, check to see if that could be resolved by tightening the bolts on it. Sometimes that is all they need. Check the body of the rigging to make sure that it isn't floppy. Make sure it is somewhat rigid. Also be careful in buying a used rigging pad. You don't want something that is going to hurt horses. Hope this helps.

HEY JT
GREAT QUESTION !!! I FIND WHEN I AM HAVING PROBLEMS WITH KEEPING MY TOES TURNED OUT OR FEET FROM POPPING OUT, I TRY TO FOCUS MORE ON MY CHEST!!. IF YOU KEEP YOUR CHEST OUT AND WEIGHT ON YOU KNEES "SQUEEZE WITH YOUR KNEES", YOU WILL FIND YOU WILL BE ABLE TO KEEP YOUR TOES OUT MUCH EASIER.
BY STICKING YOUR CHEST OUT, DON'T MISTAKE THIS WITH LEANING OVER THE TOP OF YOUR BULLS. IT IS JUST BASIC FORM KEEP YOUR CHEST OUT, CHIN DOWN, AND SQUEEZE THOSE KNEES !!!!!!

SOME OF THE BEST BULL RIDERS COULD NOT TURN THEIR TOES OUT ! "TERRY DON WEST AND TUFF "
GREAT QUESTION AND GOOD LUCK !!!!!
BJ SCHUMACHER
www.BJSchumacher.net

When a bull has a lot a drop while spinning you have to cheat over in there a little bit. Then when they come back up, get square again. It’s a fine line you just have to fill for it. Good luck!
Sean Willingham

Dylan,
There are basically 3 plaits. The 9,7, and 5 plait. The 9 is the tightest and the 5 is the softest. We only make 9 or 7 plait handles because the 5 plait is not hard enough. The majority of the handles that we make are 9 plait, beacuse they hold up the longest. From there, you need to decide how wide of a handle. In adult size bull ropes, we offer 11/16", 3/4", and 7/8". If your hand is medium sized, then you will probably need the 3/4" handle. As for the tail, you will probably need something medium sized as well. The tail always comes down to personal preference. You have to choose the plait, size, and how hard or soft you want it. If you don't know any of these, I typically recommend something in the middle like a 7 plait, hard or soft. Hope this helps.

HEY TONY
WHEN I FIRST STARTED WEARING MY HELMET, I WOULD WEAR IT AROUND THE HOUSE AND RIDE HORSES IN IT TO GET USE TO IT. IT DID NOT TAKE LONG TO GET USE TO IT. I FEEL THAT RIDING MY HORSES BARE BACK IS THE MOST BENEFICIAL FOR MY BALANCE. FOR YOUR WORK OUT. I DO NOT HAVE A SPECIFIC WORK OUT PROGRAM . I WOULD RECOMMEND CARDIO AND WATCHING WHAT YOU EAT. RIDE THE MIGHTY BUCKY OR HORSES AS MUCH AS YOU CAN .
GOOD LUCK!!!!!
BJ SCHUMACHER
www.BJSchumacher.net

Cliff,
You have asked a good question. I have a lot to say about working out, so I will try to give you the condensed version. I definitely recommend for everyone to exercise no matter what you do, but as far as bull riding workouts go, here's what I suggest:

1. Do full body workouts when you workout. Don't just focus on one part of your body one day and another part on a different day. You should be working out for about an hour straight trying to hit every part of your body. Most sports require that you use your entire body at the same time, so you should train that way.
2. Don't try to bulk up, just focus on doing a moderately heavy weight that you can do 10-12 reps for 3 sets.
3. Do a lot of core strengthening exercises. I have started using kettlebells (go to www.artofstrength.com http://www.artofstrength.com for more info) for my workouts, and I have found that they work my core along with everything else.
4. Switch it up. Don't do the same exercise everytime. Your body will adapt very quickly, so try to do different exercise every month.
5. Keep doing cardio.

That is more short version of what is good to be doing for bull riding. Ultimately, the best way to get in shape to ride bulls is to get on a bunch of practice bulls.


Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.wileypetersen.com




"Trust in the Lord with all your heart, and lean not on your own understanding." Proverbs 3:5

If he just started riding, he can get by with a standard type rope. Most bull rope makers offer such a rope. These types of ropes are standard in design. They come usually in just one plait, 9 or 7, and they come come with any types of extras, such as soft tails. These ropes are generally cheaper in price. We offer some standard ropes for around $150. Most bull rope makers will have something similar in price that they offer for beginners. The good thing about starting with a standard rope is that you can save a litlle money, but still get a good quality rope. Also, being a beginner, I am guessing that he probably doesn't even know what he likes in a bull rope. This rope will give him a better idea on what type of rope he does like.
The one thing that he does need to consider is his hand size. If he does have exceptionally small hands he might have to consider a smaller handle rope. If that is the case, then he will have to go with a custom style rope in order to get a small handle. That will all depend on his glove size. I would say if he wears a size 7 or smaller glove, he will have to consider that. Hope this helps.

Chris,
Someone else asked the same question:
Here is the answer:
As soon as possible. Bull riding can be a short career, so you don’t want to waste your time in the amateur ranks. So, if your comfortable hitting the rode, go with it.
Best of luck
Sean Willingham
Top PBR Bull Rider

Brandon
I don't think your to old to start riding if you really want to. Brian Bain our traveling partner didn't start till he was 21 or 22. I would recommend a barstow riggin for sure, and look in to going to a school to start, this way you can get all your gear set up right and get a great start on the basic principles. Hope this helps.

Jason Havens

Chris,
There are many people that ask that same question. The simple answer is, ride your best and strive to be the best. All of the guys you see at the NFR or the PBR Finals are the best of the best. They didn't get there because someone gave them the opportunity, or sponsors paid there way. They got there because they qualified by competing hard and winning. If you do that, you will be recognized and everything else will just fall into place.
Good Luck!

Dylan,
When you order the glove, we just send the glove. If you order the glove with the option of the padded palm piece, plain palm piece, or the monster set-up, we will install it for you.

John,
That term is referring to the size of the bronc rein, or rope. Scant means less than or smaller than the norm. That term is more frequently heard when dealing with calf or team ropes. You might have heard a 3/8" scant, which means less than 3/8". In terms of bronc reins, all it means is a small bronc rein, or hair smaller than average. Hope this helps.
Brent

Kyle, I tell people to try both hands. I think if you are right handed you should use that hand for balance and hang on with your less dominant hand. Eventually your left arm will get strong. Bull riding is more about balance and try than strength. Hope that helps. Stick it on them!

Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Hi Ryley, If you dont have trouble turning your toes out when you are not on a horse, then most likley its a mental block of some kind and it happens to everyone. Try to visualize exactly the way you want to do it in your mind over and over
until it just happens on its own.

Kelly Wardell
Top NFR Bareback Rider

Josh

I would say that if your getting jerked down you might be in a situation that you need to double grab. I would work on lifting and staying square, this should keep you from getting jerked down and fix the double grabbing problem. Hope this advice helps you out, best of luck.

Jason Havens
Top PRCA Bareback Rider
PRCA BB Riding Director

Jason
Thanks for your inquiry its hard to say what exactly is happening having not seen you but be sure when you leave the bucking chute that your hips are in front of your shoulders and that your shoulders are square and your chin is firmly on your chest. As the horse turns out wrap the inside of your legs or your calfs around the horses neck with your spurs in the front of his neck and pull them back to you. This is the body position you want when you leave the chute and every jump when he hits the ground. If you can do all these things together it will solve your problem. I am having a school on November 14 and 15 in Red Bluff California if you need more direct help. Thank you for your question.
Bobby
www.BobbyMote.com

Hi Tanner, My advice would be get a second opinion on surgery. I've had friends with the same problem and have had successful surgery. On the other hand if you feel good, you might try it a couple times and see how it feels, but if it comes out again find someone to fix it.

Kelly Wardell
NFR Bareback Rider

As soon as possible. Bull riding can be a short career, so you don’t want to waste your time in the amateur ranks. So, if your comfortable hitting the rode, go with it.
Best of luck
Sean Willingham
Top PBR Bull Rider

Buck,
There is a Rodeo School very close to you coming up November 20-22. It is the Southeast Texas Bareback Riding School. This will be a great school for you. This school is put on by Clint, Kirby, and Jay Cannon in Waller, TX. There will be lots of other great Bareback riders there helping as well. They have always put this school on for free, and are continuing that this year. You need to sign up today, because as of yesterday they already had 40 entries. The information is on our Rodeo School Page, or you can contact Kirby Cannon or Summer Cannon at 713-906-9040. They will have one day of ground work, and unlimited stock the other two days. Contact them today to reserve your spot. As far as exercises go, The Spur Magic we used to have worked great for that. Unfortunately, we do not have those anymore. You can make a spur board that will work. But, probably the best exercise machine that's out there right now is The Masher. This, alot like the Spur Magic, targets the exact muscle needed for Bareback riding. You will be building up "memory" for your muscles to repeat the spurring motion. You can find The Masher at www.TheMasher.com

HEY TONY,
I JUST WANT TO EXPRESS TO YOU THAT WEIGHT LIFTING ,CARDIO AND THE MIGHTY BUCKY ARE IMPORTANT BUT I FEEL THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS STRETCHING. I ALWAYS STRETCH OUT FOR A WHILE BEFORE I GET ON !!! AS TO LIFTING WEIGHTS, I PERSONALLY DO NOT LIFT A LOT I FEEL IT IS NOT NECESSARY TO BULK UP . IF YOU DO LIFT I WOULD GO A BIT LIGHTER WITH MORE REPS. FOR THE CARDIO I RUN FOR ABOUT 2 MI A FEW TIMES A WEEK . IF YOU HAVE ANY MORE QUESTIONS LET ME KNOW !
GOOD LUCK !
BJ SCHUMACHER
www.BJSchumacher.net

Ricky,
Congrats on doing so well. Keep it up man! I think what matters most is doing your best. Don't worry about anyone else. You just work hard and ride hard and be the best you can. People will always try to give excuses why you win and they don't. It really doesn't matter. Just have fun and help others do their best. I know a lot of tall kids that can't ride very good, so being tall or short has little to do with anything. Go get 'em!

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Ryley, typically we tell people to go with a half size biiger rigging than your glove, which would be a size 10 for you. That applies if you are riding with a regular size cheater on your glove. If you have the Monster set-up, which is a cheater on the front and the back of the glove, or if you have a glove with a giant sized cheater on it, then you may want to go with a rigging that is a full size bigger than your glove. In this case that would be a size 10 1/2. If you are too far to go and look at a rigging to pick one out, then the best thing to do if you are not sure if your glove is going to fit in a half size bigger rigging is to order one a littler bigger. The reason is that it easier to add leather to the front of the rigging to "Shim it", than having to file or wrasp the front of the handle out. I hope that this helps.

Kyle,
In order to start riding bulls you will need the following:
Bull rope, Bull rope pad, Bell and bell strap, Glove, Rosin and glycerine, Riding Boots, Bull riding spurs and rowels, Spur Straps, Boot straps, Tape, Protective vest, Chaps, Helmet, Gear Bag, Mouth guard, Wire brush. All of this at one time can get expensive. If you buy good quality equipment, which you should, all of this together is going to cost you between $1500-$2000. You can save money by not riding at first with chaps, and possibly buying some less expensive spurs for the time being. But, everything else is very important. You wouldn't go sky diving with a cheap, used, dilapidated parachute would you?
As far as a good rodeo school goes, you might want to look into traveling a little if you want to learn from the best. There's usually a really good school put on at Stace Smith's ranch in Texas over Thanksgiving. In past years they have Matt Austin and B.J. Schumacher there teaching as well as other great bull riders. B.J. and Fred Boettcher live up there close to you and might be putting something together before long. If they do we will list it on our website. Keep checking our website, because we will have any information about schools coming up, like the one at Stace's ranch. Hope this helps and good luck
Brent Hodge

Yes, it is a very good glove. It is a more expensive glove, but it is very comfortable. Most people that try the glove, love it. But like many things, you can't just go by what other people think. You need to try it for yourself, before you know if it is the glove for you. The glove is like all bull riding gloves though. It will wear out eventually, because it is made of leather. The only way you will know is to just buy one and give a try.

Brody,
The best mind set is to be calm and confident. To be that way, you have to be ready before you get in the chute, even before you get to the event. That means practicing, working out, thinking about how you want to ride, and praying for God to give you the strength. Don't let your mind get to cluttered. Breathe deep and keep your mind clear. This will be the best mind set you to be in right when you nod your head. Ride hard!

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Hey Ryan im not to sure if it matters what rowels you use as long as you feel comfortable with them. I have always used rowels from Barstow and have never changed. Some people change their rowels more often than their clothes but I think they are over thinking about them. So if you want, try a few and see what feels best to you. About your knee: Im not a doctor but you should sit out until you know that you are confident in your knee and yourself. You can try to ride hurt but most of the time you are just wasting money. You could probably get on-line and find a good workout program for your knee. Good luck!

Some places you might try are local pawn shops, rodeos, and Ebay. Besides that there are not many people that deal with used equipment. Your post on here might draw some attention as well. It's not always the best thing to look for the cheapest thing you can find in rodeo equipment. This is a dangerous sport and you don't want to be climbing on a rank bucking horse with second rate gear. You might think twice about saving your money and go ahead and buy something that's going to last and be much more safer.

The most important equipment you will first need are a vest, rope, bell, bell strap, rosin, glove, boots, spurs and probably a helmet. Once you get the basics you can start getting on. I wouldn't recomend skimping on a cheap rope or vest. I have noticed that some companies are making their own vest and calling it a protective bull riding vest. Some of these that we have seen are nothing more than foam padding covered in leather. If you are not sure if the one you are looking at isn't actually a good protective vest, I would recommend a Lambert Master Pro or a Phoenix vest. The glove, boots and spurs you can buy the less expensive ones or even try a pawn shop for the time being and to just get by. However if you stick with it, you would be better off buying the best equipment you can find, it always pays off in the long run. Some other gear you will need are: a bull rope pad and chaps. After you have your equipment you need to find a school to go to. Many of the Top Pros will be putting on schools in the near future. You can keep checking our website to see when there will be one near you.
Hope this helps you and good luck!

Tyler,
Unfortunately, there isn't a pad that is the best. That is why we offer different styles. When it comes to rodeo equipment, you have to try one and see how you like it. If that one doesn't work, try something different. Ultimately the decision comes down to what you like the best. If you have no idea, a good one to start out with would be something like our Pro bull rope pad. Many different companies make one very similar to it and it has been the one that most people have liked the most over the years. Hope this helps.

Brent Hodge

I allways like my feet in front of my rope when I leave, just in case a bull backs up a little bit, you want lose your feet. But, don't leave the chute with your feet in your rope, if you no what I mean. lol

Sean Willingham

Micah,
The best thing to do is go to a school for bareback riding and have a pro set up your glove and show you how to do it yourself. If you dont like to fix your own there are lots of guys that will do it and do a good job.

Kelly Wardell
NFR Bareback Rider

Dear Tyler,
I am 6ft and 180lbs I am big for a bullrider myself. I don't think size matters. What matters most is that you have the desire to do it. I know plenty of guys that are tall and make a good living riding bulls every year. Don't ever let someone else tell you what you can or can't do. Don't quit and go be the best.

Sincerely,

Jarrod Craig
2 X WNFR Qualifier

Hey ,
I prefer a quarter turn . You can have them set how you would like. The reason I like to have a quarter turn is to prevent me from pulling my groins.
Let me know if you have any other questions!
Good Luck!!
BJ Schumacher
www.BJSchumacher.net

Thanks Richard,
In order to get started riding bareback you will need:
A bareback rigging, rigging pad, handle pad, tail pad, protective vest, glove, 2 latigos, cinch, boots, spurs, rowels, spur straps, chaps, and a pair of boots. That should be everything that you would need to get started. I hope that this helps and good luck.

The heavier you are the harder it is on your body. If you are 6' I would recommend you cut down closer to 200 if not under. But its worth it. Good luck



Bobby Mote
2x World Champion Bareback Rider
Click Here To Go To Bobby Mote.com

The two main things are. 1 the handle is set ahead.
2 the body is longer

Zach,
Many people are like you in that they want to start riding but don't know how. The first thing you are going to need to do is get some basic equipment. The most important equipment you will first need are a vest, rope, glove, boots and spurs. Some of this you can possibly borrow until you get some money saved. I wouldn't recomend skimping on a cheap rope or vest. The Glove, boots and spurs you can buy the less expensive ones or even try a pawn shop. After you have your equipment you need to find a school to go to. Many of the Top Pros will be putting on schools in the near future. You can keep checking our website to see when there will be one near you.

Leroy,
What we can do is make a 9 plait rope with a handle that measures just a hair under 3/4" with a baby 9 tail. The baby 9 plait measures 5/8" wide. This typically works for most people with small hands. The only difference between a 9 plait and a baby 9 plait is that the regular 9 plait measures about 3/4" and the baby 9 plait measures 5/8" wide. The reason we don't feel comfortable making a rope with a baby 9 handle is because it is so small that, you can't get enough leather into the handle to make it hard. You take a chance on the handle breaking in the process or making a handle that will not be safe to ride with. I hope that this helps, take care.

Dylan,
I am not sure what part of Arkansas you live in, but there is a guy in the Magnola/ Emerson area that is a Petroleum engineer and works overseas on 30 day shifts. The time when he is here he has practice horses for people to get on. His name is Van Flayerty. I am not sure on the spelling of his last name, but this should help. I hope it does and good luck.

Brent Hodge

Cody,
Keep checking our website for something close. There are a few possibilities that we are working on, and as soon as I hear from one of the Pros, I will post Rodeo Schools on the website.

Justin,
No, the two quick releases are totally different. We sell the trips for horse flanks, but no longer offer the quick releases for riggings.

The bare back vest is the best vest to use for Saddle bronc. The reason is because the vest doesn't come down as far in the back as the bull riding vest. Also the bare back vest has more room for your arms, giving you more mobility.

Gus,
Ordering a rope is very confusing for most people. I think that most people don't realize that you can order what ever size handle and tail and as many combinations of the two as you can imagine. If you like the 7/8" handle, that does't mean that you have to get a rope with a 1" tail. You can get the tail whatever size you would like. As far as the 1" tail feeling like a 2" tail, no it won't. A 2" tail is pretty much un heard of. That is way too big for any body. If you can ever get to a store that has a great selection of bull ropes with different tails, that is the best way to find what you are lookng for in a bull rope.

Hey Mike you just need to really concentrate on keeping a good hold with your feet. Make sure your squeezing with your legs and turning your toes out. If you keep having a hard time, try getting some spurs from Barstow that have a little more angle on the shank or try getting some new rowels.

Good luck
Beau Hill

Austin,
I would not recommend doing that. The trips are not designed for that, and there really isn't enough space on those to braid a rope through them. I think that the best thing to do is to get a quick release that is designed for bull ropes. You don't want to half way do something and take a chance on really getting hurt. I would recommend buying some type of quick release and having a braider put it in for you. I hope this helps and good luck.

Brent Hodge

The best way to do it is to trace your hand, palm side down with four fingers together and your thumb sticking out. Mail that tracing into us, faxing will not work because it sometimes distorts the size of the tracing. You want this to be exact because the all rawhide handles can take as long as 10 weeks to build. We will measure the tracing and tell you what size of glove and handle you need.

The Bronc Saddles on our website are G-G Saddles made by Dennis and Randy George. If you order through us, we will put our billets and stirrup leathers on them. You can go to www.gbargsaddles.com/bronc%20saddles.htm to get more information on their saddles.

Jade,
It is pretty common for riders to do better in the practice pen than in the competition. Any sport is as much mental as it is physical. You should try treating the practice like a competition and the competition like a practice. Visualize the competition before you go. Try imagining how you are feeling. Stay relaxed and focused. Confident and aggressive. Don't worry about bucking off or losing, just try to win and have fun. I have learned that winning is more fun, but if I clamp down and just try to hang on I get bucked off and don't have fun. I hope that helps. God bless and have fun.

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Tyler,
When a bull has a lot of down, you got to push on that bull rope and keep your shoulders turned square. Try this and I guarantee you it will help.
Good luck

Sean Willingham
Top PBR Bull Rider

Taylor, it is going to depend on what event. Bareback riders use the white rosin. Bull riders use either one. The black rosin is much more sticky than the white. If you are a bull rider, it will depend on how sticky you like your rope. Most younger, inexperienced riders will start out with white rosin, because they don't want it too sticky. I would say start out with the white rosin, and if you feel like that isn't working good enough, switch to the black rosin.
Thanks for the question and hope that works.

Tyler,
You probably would not be able to feel a great amount of difference between an over and under versus a both bars under handle. We sell more both bars under. A both bars under will hol the peak in a rigging longer.

Neil Barstow

Well I would first make sure that you are getting a good spur out. To lift properly you need to make sure that your hips are in front of your shoulders. You can actually sit up too much and try to lift but when the horse drops it will pull your shoulders in front of your hips so be sure to keep your shoulders back.

Bobby Mote
2x World Champion Bareback Rider
www.Bobby Mote.com

Zack

The high lift riggins are going to sit up higher on the horses withers. This will take some of the pressure off your wrist and elbow. Some people like a riggin that sits a little lower if they have longer arms, but I prefer the high lift over under. Give one a try and see how you like it. Good luck and spur em down!

Jason

Josh,
Thanks for serving our country. I pray for our troops and their families everyday. God bless you.
My favorite verse is Proverbs 3:5 "Trust in the Lord with all your heart and lean not on your own understanding." This is my favorite because when I first started reading the Bible and walking with the Lord this verse really helped me overcome challenges in my life. It still gives me strength to think about that verse when I am tempted to doubt God's guidance.
My half brother's name is Josh Petersen.

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Kyle,
It sounds like you may be looking for results too far ahead. The most important step in a ride is the spur out. That's step one. If you focus on that, then step two will come. The easiest thing to do is to focus on the end or the middle and overlook the start. Make sure you have your hips in front of your shoulders, that you are lifting and that as soon as the horse is turning out of the chute you reach around in front of his neck and get a hold of him with the inside of your legs. If you do that the next jump will come and you will be ahead of the horse. When you do this you will find that your rides will start to come together.
All the best.

Bobby Mote

Kyle,

All in all it seems to be a personal preference, and personally I believe I can get a better hold on horses with my dropped shank spurs. With the drop shank I feel that I can have a lot more control of my feet(hold them if I need to, or let them come) than I did with straight shanks.

It seems that most bareback riders feel the same, there are a lot of guys who ride drop shanks. But, you will see some of the top guys who prefer a straight shank. I would say if you could try each one for a while and see what works best for you.
Good luck!

Jason Havens

Jordan,
To get started riding bulls you will need: a good rope, glove, bell, a bell strap, boots with a good stout counter on them, spurs and spur straps, rowels, rosin, a protective vest, and eventually chaps. Now, some things you can buy used and get good deals on, but there are some things that you need to be careful about buying used, for example a rope. If you are going to start riding bulls, you need to give yourself every opportunity to succeed, as well as buying equipment that is going to keep you as safe as possible. For this reason, I would really be picky when it comes to buying a rope. You can find many used ones for sale, but you really need to look over them carefully. If you don't know what to look for, have someone you know look at it for you. You want a rope that has a good and hard block and riser, as well as the handle. A rope that has a block and riser that is weak or broken down, is going to lead to many hangups. You can probably find used vest as well, but again this is something that you don't want to just look fr the cheapest one out there. Everything else you can try and bargain shop and find gear to just get by for the time. But remember, once you save up more money you will want to replace the worn gear with better.
As for the Rodeo Schools, typically they are not cheap. However, the PRCA is putting on free rodeo schools this month. They had one this past weekend in Iowa. They are scheduled to have one more Wednesday and Thursday this week in Cody, Wyoming. You can get the information at http://www.prorodeo.com/youthrodeo.aspx. This is going to be your best bet at a cheap school.
Hope this helps and good luck.

Hey Austin,
Austin I am going to tell you the Good and the Bad. The Bad news first, this happens to all of us and sometimes you just can't recover. The good news is, some times you can . I have found that if you push down and drop your elbow/free arm while he is blowing he may pick you back up. When you do this be sure he is blowing "that he is in the AIR" . Good luck!
GREAT QUESTION!
BJ SCHUMACHER

Clint,
The best rowels out there right now may or may not be the correct ones for you. Many people buy the most popular rowel on the market simply because they look cool or that's what their buddy got. The best thing to do is see what works the best for you. If you really do use your feet a lot and are having a hard time getting a good hold, then maybe you do need to try something more aggressive. The rank 1 bull rowel, is basically our Superior Rowel, which we do sell a lot of. The Gator Rowel is another rowel that many people are using, but it is more expensive I believe. Maybe try the less expensive ones now, and if they don't work then bite the bullet and try the Gators.

Mike,
Justin wasn't a guy who actually rode with his feet much. In fact he was actually surprised once when someone showed him a picture of himself with his toes turned out. With that being said, he just used a plain regular bull rowel, which is a good rowel to start out with until you find out what you like.
Hope this helps.

We all get lazy about that time. The best way to fix that, is to try and stay focused and ride for ten seconds instead of 8. That way instead of getting lazy at 6 or 7, it will be 8 or 9 seconds and the whistle would have already came.
Best of luck
Sean Willingham
Top PBR Bullrider

Neil,
Go to this website: www.GBarGSaddles.com , here you will find the information that you need to order bronc saddles. It has a range for guys' sizes and what size of bronc saddle you need. If you have any more questions, you can find G-G's phone number on there as well. They would be glad to answer any questions you might have.

Ivan,
Many people have asked the question, what kind of bull rope do I need to start riding bulls. The answer is, what ever rope feels the best in your hand. You want a handle and tail that can fit all the way in your hand. You have to be able to completely close your hand in order to really be able to squeeze hard and get a good holt. Also you want a rope that has a handle that is to your liking. In order to get a rope that is going to hold up for a long period of time, you might want to go with a full leather handle. These are the hardest handles, but they will also last the longest. You want a rope that has a really good and hard block and riser. This helps the rope last longer and helps avoid hang-ups. The tail, once again comes down to personal preference. Try looking at some of your friends' tails and taking a wrap with those until you find something that you like.
As far as rodeo schools go, I believe that it is to go to a rodeo school. But, I personally think that you need to find a school that is put on by someone with great credentials. You can look on our website, we have added a new page that has rodeo schools on there. You might have to be willing to travel in order to find a great school. I have talked to several Bull Riders that are planning on putting on schools in the future. As soon as we get new information on schools I will post it on our website.
I hope this helps, and thanks for the great questions.
Brent Hodge

Tanner,
I would say that based on what you have told me it would not hurt to be closer to 180 but everyone is different. I am 6' 180 and I would not want to be any bigger. Core strength and flexibility are the most important.

Bobby Mote
2x World Champion Bareback Rider
www.Bobby Mote.com

Hi Josh! When a bull is turning back really concentrate on keeping a hold with your spurs. If your having a hard time maybe try switching to a spur that is bent in a little more. This should help you as well. Barstow sells some spurs that have more of an angle on the shank so it should help you keep a better hold. When a bull is turning back into your riding arm, try to really pump your free hand over the top of your head, not across your body in front of you. This will keep your hips in the right position and make it easier to hold on with your feet when your sitting square. Good luck and keep trying!

Beau Hill

Hey Austin,
I understand exactly what you are saying. As you know, bull riding is a very challenging sport. Not only do you have to deal with the challenge of riding a huge, unpredictable animal that wants to stomp you, but you have to do it without any reservations about your health and safety. I struggle with the same things you have mentioned. I think every rider does at some point or another.
It sounds like you are letting fear and doubt be more powerful than faith and confidence. I would suggest thinking things through during the weeks before you get to the events. Mentally visualize yourself going through the entire process of riding. Think about how you feel. When does the fear begin to creep in? What do you do to overcome that fear? Preparation is key.
Praying and asking God to give you strength is important, but if you don't step up and push through the fear, you will never beat it. I believe that God will not take danger or hardships from our lives because those things force us to cling to Him.
Make sure that you are doing what God wants you to do and then go for it without any reservations. Hold nothing back. Trust God to do what is best. Make up your mind to stop living in fear and doubt and start putting forth the effort it takes to be the best! You have to try harder than you've ever tried before every time you tie your hand to that bull. Trying hard does not mean just clamping down and gutting it out. Trying hard means being aggressive, confident and you keep hustling until the bull fighters tell you to get off.
I hope that helps a little. God bless.

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Ben,
When a person is having difficulty it is always good to ask yourself if you are executing the basics. It has been my experience that wherever the problem is the solution lies in the step before. So with that being said you have to ask yourself. Am I getting a strong spur out? Am I tucking my chin? Am I lifting on my riggin with my hips in front of my shoulders? If you skip any one of these basics you will loose control of your upper body and feet. No matter what level you are at in your riding it all goes back to basics. Thanks for your question.

Bobby Mote
2x World Champion Bareback Rider
www.Bobby Mote.com

Justin,
The problem with using a spring barrel is you tend to sit on your butt to ride it. My suggestion is make your barrel stationary and practice your moves that way. Another thing if you have access to a horse riding bareback is in my opinion the best practice you can use to work on balance and leg strengthening.

Fred Boettcher
Top PRCA Bull Rider
PRCA Bull Riding Director

Justin,
there are basically 2 things that can cause the loop 2 get twisted. The way ropes are made is by taking small individual strands of fiber and twisting them to make a bigger piece of rope. Then 3 of these pieces are twisted together to give you the actual rope. Now, you have all of this tiny fiber that twisted many times to give you your final product. All of this twisting of the fibers is what causes the loop end to twist, once the rope is allowed to "relax". The other factor that can cause the loop to twist, is the way you tie your knot. Many people tie their knot the same way which is not the best way to do it. They make an overhand knot and then flip the small loop over the knot itself. When you do this, you are putting more twist in the rope. This is what causes more twist in the loop. Once you make your overhand knot, run the other end of the rope through the loop. Now the loop is still in the "natural" or "relax" state and you are not putting more twist in it. If you take your knot out each time, do it the same way, and you shouldn't have any more problems. Now, if you already have a twist in your loop end there is a way to get it out. What you have to do is wrap the loop end just past the block, around something solid. This is to keep the other end of the rope from twisting. Now, twist the loop end in the opposite direction of the twist in the rope. This is usually clockwise. You will grab the very end of the loop end, with the knot out of the rope, and stretch it out and twist it until you can't any more. Once you have it twisted to that point, secure the loop end. I usually secure it to a nail I have on the wall by where I braid. Leave it there as long as you can. The longer you leave it there the better. If you do leave it there for a couple of weeks, you will want to take it off about a day before you plan on using it. This is because the rope will have a twist in it the opposite direction for a short period of time. After a while that will come out and you should be ready to go.

Henry,
There are many things to look at when you are getting a new rope. What anyone needs to look for in a good rope is one with a well built block. This is pretty much the foundation of the rope. Everything is built off of the block, so that is why this needs to be good and hard. Next you want the handle and riser area to be well built as well. If you get a rope that has a weak riser or handle, you can count on having a few hang-ups. The rest of the rope comes down to personal preference. You do want a handle and tail that fits good in your hand. Too much handle or tail will not let you get your hand closed good enough. If you do not know what type of handle or tail you want, I typically advise people to go with a 9 plait handle. The tail, you just need to see if maybe there is a tail of someone you know and you like it. If you don't know then you just have to pick something in the middle like a 7 plait.

HI JOSH,
I HOPE EVERYTHING IS GOING GOOD.
WHEN YOU START TO HAVE ISSUES WITH LOOSING YOUR FEET, YOU NEED TO START BY FOCUSING ON YOUR UPPER BODY , GET YOUR CHEST OUT AND BE SURE YOU ARE LIFTING ON YOUR BULL ROPE. IF YOU ARE NOT GETTING YOUR CHEST OUT AND NOT LIFTING ON YOUR ROPE THAT WILL CAUSE YOU TO LOOSE YOUR FEET!!!! FOR EXAMPLE, WHEN A BULL IS BUCKING STRAIGHT AWAY YOU CAN GET BY WITH NOT GETTING YOUR CHEST OUT AND LIFTING. BUT WHEN THEY START TO TURN BACK IF YOU DON'T HAVE YOUR CHEST OUT AND IF YOU ARE NOT LIFTING ON YOUR ROPE YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR FEET.
TAKE CARE AND KEEP YOUR CHEST OUT AND LIFT ON YOUR ROPE !!!!
BJ SCHUMACHER
2006 PRCA World Champion Bull Rider
www.BJSchumacher.net

Taylor,
Glycerine is used to put on your rope to help the rosin stick to the rope. Usually before every ride a guy will clean the old rosin off with a wire brush before burning more rosin on the rope. When you go to put the rosin on your rope check to see how well it is sticking to the rope. If you feel like its not sticking good, then put a little bit more glycerine on your rope. Another related question I get a lot is, how to clean or remove the rosin after it has built up for a long period of time? Which you might have this problem as well. Over time rosin will really get built up on your tail, and your tail will lose its form and softness. If you soak your tail, only the rosin strip, in high concentrate rubbing alcohol for about 20 minutes and then work your tail around, the old rosin will pop right off. After you have done this and allow the tail to completely dry, you can start over with your glycerine and rosin.

Kody,
There is a lot of things that come into play if you are trying to stay on a bareback horse. I would say holding on to your rigging, balancing, and spuring with your feet keep you on a bareback horse!
Thanks for the question.
Jason Havens

Ricky,
Your free hand is your balance beam, any time your hand gets too high or too low this will shift your weight. One thing you can try doing is ride horses bare back keeping your free hand in the correct place. Also remember to ride the front, and when the bull kicks don't try whipping your free hand back, just really lift on your rope and stick your chest out. A good guy to watch do this is Kody Lostroh or Chris Shivers

Good luck,
Fred Boettcher

Hi, Justin
I hope everything is going good for you this year. If I was going from steers to bulls I would try to find some big strong steers to get on. When you feel good and your confidence is up then move up to bulls. If you have a hard time finding large steers you might want to try to find some young bulls they will not be as strong and powerful. Thanks for the question it was a good one that I hear all the time. Good Luck This Year!!!
BJ SCHUMACHER
2006 PRCA World Champion Bull Rider
www.BJSchumacher.net

Justin, that answer is going to be what is best for you. Now my thoughts are that if it is a good quality rope that you like, hold onto it until you start getting on bigger bulls that it will fit. As far as trying to use it now to ride steers, that probably isn't going to work. I am just guessing, but if the rope you have now is for bulls, then the handle is typically wider than steer ropes. Same for the tail. The overall length of the rope is going to be much longer than what you need for riding steers, so you are probably going to have to double knot it, which will work but isn't recommended. So if you keep this rope, you are going to have to buy a smaller rope, probably a Jr. Bull Rope. Now if money is an issue, which most of the time it is, more than likely you can send the rope in to whoever you bought the rope from and order exactly what you want, Again probably a Jr. Bull Rope. Most Bull Rope makers will exchange ropes with you as long as the rope has not been used and it is within a reasonable amount of time. Either way you might have to wait a little bit of time before you can get a new rope because if the rope is customized it will probably have to be made. This could take anywhere from 1-5 weeks. In short you need to way your options, spending the extra money now to get the correct size of rope, or exchanging it for another one.

Good question, Travis.
If you are losing your feet, it is probably because you are leaning forward too far. I try to stay forward, but not too far forward. You want to have your chest right out over the bulls shoulders. It is all about finding the center of balance. Get on some horses bareback and lean forward until you feel your feet start to pull behind you, then you know you've gone to far. You also have to make sure you are squeezing with your feet and legs when you reach (at the same time as the bull rares).
Keep training and working! You will get it.

Sincerely,
Wilet Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Joe, you will need a bareback rigging, a bareback glove, and a good rigging pad (the rigging pad is designed to protect the horses' back). All rodeo associations that I am aware of require the rider to have a good rigging pad. Other necessities are a cincha, 2 latigos, bareback riding spurs, rowels, spur straps, and boot straps or ties. We recommend a good protective vest, (if you are in high school this will be mandatory). A tail pad and handle pad are not mandatory, but they can sure help to avoid a bruised or cracked tail bone and other major discomforts. You might already have boots that would work to get started if they have a good counter on them to protect your heel. Chaps are something you will want eventually, but are not necessary for getting started. Be careful when buying used equipment, especially online, where you can't actually check out the condition and fit.
We recommend consulting with an experienced pro in your area. In addition to the advice from pros, attending one or more good rodeo schools is very advanteous for the beginner.

Hey Micheal! Thats a good question. Like they say practice makes perfect. I would practice as much as possible. It is hard to put a time line on how much and how often you should practice. But you should be able to ride your practice bulls well and have a bunch of confidence in your riding ability before you enter up. If you are not able to ride practice bulls you would be wasting your money entering. So just keep getting on and learning from your mistakes and try to make yourself a better bull rider. When you feel you are riding most of your practice bulls and riding well, enter up and start winning the money! Good luck!

Josh,

The best degree for bull spurs depends on how much you turn your toes out. My spurs are offset by about 22-23 degrees with a 2 inch shank. Some riders may even have them offset as much as 30 degrees. I would recommend getting the most common set of spurs and see how they feel for you. If you feel like you just can't get a good hold with your feet, then you can try a pair with a more agressive offset. If you are a taller guy, you may want to try a longer shank too. Most of the equipment in bull riding is based on personal preference, so use what you are comfortable with.

Sincerely,
Wiley Petersen
www.WileyPetersen.com

Christian,
I would say that since you are going over the bulls head everytime you are probably
not getting a good enough hold of the bull with your feet. Getting out over a bull
is good but if you do not have a hold with your spurs your feet will slide back and
you will go over the bulls head. If you keep having problems turning your toes out
and getting a good hold, try some spurs from Barstow that are turned in a little
more on the shank.

Beau Hill
Top PRCA & PBR Bull Rider

Ean,
To get the best fit in a rigging you need to know what size glove you wear and the brand of the glove. If you do not know your glove size, you can place your hand(palm down) on a piece of paper with your fingers together and your thumb out. Trace around your hand and be careful to hold your pencil straight. Then send your tracing in the mail to us. Do not fax the tracing because some fax machines can distort your tracing up to a quarter of an inch. We will measure your tracing and determine your glove size for you.
Once you know your glove size we recommend that your rigging size be at least a half size larger . Example: you wear a size 9 Shawn Shields B-B Bareback Glove, you will need a size 9 1/2 rigging handle. This leaves room to build up your glove and rigging for the best fit. It is always best to get someone with plenty of experience to help you set everything up.
When getting a new rigging one should also get a new glove as you want the glove to conform to the new rigging handle.

Neil Barstow

Ean,
That is a hard question to answer without actually watching you ride and looking at your equipment. There are several factors that could be involved.
I would recommend that you start with the basics. Are you setting your feet and using your feet right?
I would suggest that you find a Pro in your area to give you some pointers and have them check out your equipment and make sure your rigging and glove are set up right.
If you could attend a school that would be very helpful. There are several top cowboys that will be having schools in the next few months.
I have a Bareback School June 3,4, and 5th in Madras Oregon. Check it out at my website: Click Here To Go To Bobby Mote.com

Bobby Mote
2x World Champion Bareback Rider

Well jarrod I would need to know how big your hand is.I know I prefer a thicker tail like a 5 plait with a 9 handholt. However, I recommend that your rope should fit good in your hand.

Fred Boettcher
Top PRCA Bull Rider
PRCA Bull Riding Director

Barstow Pro Rodeo adds:

Well, Jarrod there are several factors to consider. The first is your hand size. Typically guys with bigger hands want a bigger handle and tail. Guys with smaller hands prefer smaller handles and tails.
After that, it comes down to what you prefer. Once you have determined your handle size, then you need to figure out the type of handle. There is the 7 or 9 plait. I prefer the 9 plait because it will last longer and it makes a harder handle. The 7 plait handle sometimes ends up being a little round if you put too much leather in the handle and it doesn't last as long.
After you know the plait of handle, you need to decide how you want it laced. You can go with 1/2 laced, 3/4 laced, full leather laced, 3/4 skip laced, 1/2 skip, Jump skip laced, or even skip laced the entire length of the handle. All of these have different purposes but basically they have different amounts of give in them.
The last thing to decide is the tail. There are 3 plaits for the tail: 5,7, and 9 plait. One of the biggest mis-conceptions that I hear everyday is that when I ask someone how wide of a handle or tail they want, they reply with a 9 plait. This means nothing. You can make any plait any width. There are 2 factors that make a plait different from the others. 1.) Hard or softness and 2.) Thickness up and down, meaning if you were to lay all three of the plaits side by side on a table, the 5 plait would be the tallest and the 9 plait would be the shortest. Now there is not a whole lot of difference, but there is some difference.
There is only way to figure all of this out, and that is to go somewhere that has a bunch of different ropes and try them all out. You can take wraps with many different combinations of handles and tails and see which one is best for you.
I hope that all of this information helps.
Brent Hodge-Head Rope Maker for Barstow Pro Rodeo Equipment